Sliceworks – A Review

by cunningstuff

I must admit, I am a bit of a food snob. Now if you know me personally this will come as no surprise, but for those who don’t, I am a big guy and it usually takes people by surprise. I grew up very poor, so I never argue against sustenance, the act of eating for survival. I do however, find it very hard to be pleased in this decidedly anti-food town. Denver is like a child who never grew up when it comes to food here. Trendy places will always have trendy people, but there is just too much meat and potatoes blandness here to be wished away by anything coming close to reality with good food. I love variety, I love farm fresh, I love home cooking, but the ability to get that in Denver is limited, and usually protected by a fierce army of regulars. That being said, I have found great food, fairly easy to access, and if you look, fairly close to places in downtown.

I finally got lucky though, it finally happened. A damned great pizza joint finally opened. Sliceworks on 700 East Colfax is just about as good as it gets, in any city, anywhere in the US.  I work very close by, so I even met the guys before they opened the joint up, and I was impressed by their friendly candor and open demeanor from the first meeting. I watched them basically break ground, and I have been hungry ever since.

First of all, this is not your average crappy I am gonna copy a cheap NYC pizza joint pizza by the slice restaurant. Slice works endeavors to be different from the get go, and they serve up amazing slices. I eat them all, and I only want to wash a slice down with another slice. I will start at the beginning though, you have to try all the slices available.  And that is only a third of the menu. Cheese slice is perfect, a thin layer of mozzarella with a thin layer of tasty but with just the right peppering of heat sauce, on a crust that is basically perfect. These are thin crust east coast style, and no one does them like these guys. I have had horrible crust all over Denver, everyone claiming they have their favorite, but it takes something special for me to lay down a little table salt and enjoy just the crust.

I have just started though. Buffalo chicken slice, creamy, spicy, perfection in every bite.  It is definitely something that has been tried, but never has it actually worked, until you have this one.  The Vodka slice is amazing, you have to try the Bacon Cheeseburger slice, if you didn’t try the Grandma’s slice you have just missed out. As a matter of fact, you could come by here everyday for two weeks and get a different gourmand slice of pizza. I have been eating here at least twice a week ever since January, and I am still coming back to get more! Then try it plain with your favorite toppings. I really love the pesto and tomato slice with pepperoni added extra.

The whole pies are just as good, you can get the standards here, and they are all based off the basic cheese Neapolitan, and all the ingredients are fresh and prepared daily. I have to mention the chicken rolls, because I have never had anything this good since I was in Houston and my favorite bakery made sausage rolls, almost the same way.

Let me get off the baked goods for a second here. Obviously, the place has good pizza, but the rest must be murder right? We are in Denver right? We are on Colfax right? Well, you would be absolutely wrong. They make their own meatballs, a guarded family secret, and each one is the size of my fist. And order of two meatballs will set anyone with an appetite right, and if you remember to get some garlic bread with it, you have just established heaven on earth. The salads are again, testament to the ability of this restaurant to produce their menu with aplomb. The house salad is alone different and unique from most places, and they do not let up from such ravage rancor to allow any part of the menu to suffer.  Vodka cream sauce does not only find its way onto a slice, but it gets into the pasta menu. It tastes like home as well, if home was in grandma’s kitchen in the 1920’s.  Finally, the Prosciutto di parma sub. I am drooling even thinking about it, a sub that was made in Italy by a small humble shop and then especially sent to Sliceworks just for me, I have ever wanted to eat one forever and ever.

They even cook french fries right here. I once ordered some with a side of meatballs, cause I felt like fries, and thought, heh, they can’t do fries right I bet. I will have to say, I was wrong, as I am always wrong about anything they have ever tried to foist off my constant reluctance and tiresome tirade of hey, make some good food here why don’t cha. I am constantly in awe of them, and they can actually have my paychecks signed over to them, just let me sleep in the walk in cooler during closed hours.

Now take all that in, let it settle, and what can you want for more? How about a second story of a bar, with big huge windows that open out on to the wonderful world of Colfax, with perfect views of the street, the concert venue, and the surrounding neighborhood. Mike is usually up at the bar, that’s Lou’s dad, and he can make a good time out of a can of potted meat and a pile of used dental floss. I would like to vote an Avery beer on tap at the bar, but with a view of the concert crowds coming and going out of the venue next door, I will just have to suck it up and get drunk on the gin and tonics.

Take a moment, even if it’s a quick one, and try these guys out. In a mere 6 months they have become an established neighborhood pizza joint, and the reputation is highly deserved. Sliceworks will get my tithe every payday.

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